Understanding the effects of Vanillin in Fragrance OilsUpdated 4 months ago

Vanilla in Fragrance Oil

Vanilla is a flavor that is derived from orchids.   The Vanilla pods start out very green and then darken to brown as they age and ripen. The darkening is caused by various reactions in some components. One of those is vanillin, which is the organic compound that gives vanilla its flavor. While vanilla can add an amazing smell to your product, you should be aware of two common issues and the workarounds that follow: 

Vanilla can cause discoloration in your soap and cosmetic products.  Vanillin discoloration is a 100% natural process. Depending on the percentage in the fragrance, the soap/cosmetic can discolor anywhere from off-white to dark brown. It usually takes a few days to appear, although certain scents may not discolor for a few weeks. Discoloration shows up first on the part of soap/cosmetic that’s exposed to air. That means the exterior of the finished product may discolor, but once you cut into the soap bars or get to the center of the cosmetic is still its original color. Eventually, the entire product will darken.  The VCS will help to slow the browning, but will not prevent it all together.

1. Solution: Incorporate vanilla color stabilizer in your recipe. This product can be found on the WSP website. The stabilizer will help to stave off discoloration, but will not prevent it. Eventually, the product will inevitably discolor over the course of years or even months. It’s best to test to get a feel for how long this will last in your recipe 
2. Vanilla Color Stabilizersare sold on the WSP website and are sold as follows:
   1. Vanilla Color Stabilizer MP Soap
   2. Vanilla Color Stabilizer CP Soap   - slows browning in CP, HP, CPOP soaps as well as scrubs, fizzies and bath bombs.  Does not prevent browning, but helps to delay browning.  Product will eventually brown over time.
   3. Vanilla Color Stabilizer for Lotions & Washes
      
             
3. Add Titanium Dioxide- If your fragrance has a low vanilla content (up to 5%), you can use titanium dioxide.  The colorant will lighten the discoloration to a light brown.  It's recommended to use 2 tsp of titanium dioxide for oils and mix into 2 tablespoons of lightweight oil.   Color can be added at trace in CP Soap.  
   
   

Crystals or Chunks in Fragrance Oil

1. Vanilla can crystallize or turn solid in cold weather (see picture below).When a fragrance oil has a high vanilla content, it will crystallize in cold weather. This phenomenon is less frequent, but still present, in some fragrance oils with very low vanilla content.
   1. Solution: Place bottle in warm water bath until the crystals fully dissolve. Swirl the product and expect the fragrance to perform as usual.